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OCTOBER 27, 2012: My Carte de Grise

Updated: Nov 29, 2023


A short play devised for introducing new American teachers to some of the nuances of their new culture in Morocco . It is intended to be warm and light-hearted; not condescending in any way, to either culture. Background- The story is based on personal experience.


Settings: D’Immatraculation (DMV) Building, Driving in the Casablanca traffic to the Tax Collection Office; Centre de la Vignette; and at the “Technique Garage” (DMQ).

Characters : For simplicity and humor, the Darija speaking male attendants could be played by one Moroccan man who makes simple costume changes. The main character is played by a middle- aged American woman. Every exchange begins with the typical Moroccan greeting.

Male Attendant 1: in front of D’Immatraculation (young man speaking Darija or voice over by Yassine) He is the “gate keeper” and doesn’t let anyone pass without proper paperwork. Male Attendant 2: works inside “DMV” and takes paperwork Salesman under the tree: distributes important papers for a fee. Male Attendant 3: works at the desk in the Collection of papers office Mohammed: works at the Technique garage Chief of DMV: newly appointed by new conservative Government, which aims to rid the country of corruption. Woman: has just bought a used car (Renault R4) She has been in Morocco about 15 months. Hassan: friend of the Woman, he is Moroccan and lived in the U.S for twelve years. Reddad: friend of the Woman, he is Moroccan and speaks beginning level English. Narrator: gives explanations to the audience. Typical Moroccan Greeting-actors talk almost at the same time.


As-salamu alaykum? Wa alaykum as-salam.

Keefak (rah) Labas? Labas.

Bahri? Alhamdulillah.

Sometimes added, Ça va? Ça va. Act I : Scene 1 Walking to the front of the D’Immatraculation building. Woman: Hassan thank you so much for helping me today. I don’t think I could have found this place on my own and the parking was just getting terrible. Are you really sure this is the DMV it says, “D’Immatraculation” (makes terrible pronounciation) Hassan: You see, I told you we needed to get here early. And yes, this is it-- but it isn’t like in the U.S. …and you say, “D’Immatraculation” (he says clearly and smoothly and she repeats it until she almost gets it). And you are welcome. They meet the First Attendant at the door and exchange the Moroccan greeting. Attendant 1- (looks over paperwork and speaks Darija directly to Hassan only). You need to have more papers… you need to have a tax paper, a paper from the technique, a paper from the collections office that says you have both of these, and a copy of your Carte de Sejour. You must have official papers. You can get the first paper at the tree at the front of this building. Hassan: (always polite and respectful restates to be sure he understands) Shukran. She asks him what they said and he translates into English. They walk to the tree. Man under the tree- (He has a selection of papers on a bench) When they arrive there is the Moroccan Greeting and Hassan asks in Darija which papers are needed and how much they cost). For humor Hassan accidently speaks in Darija when he begins talking to the Woman asking her for 20 Dirhams. She doesn’t understand and they laugh. He repeats in English and she gives him 20 Dirhams. Woman- (afterwards and to Hassan) Well, that is an interesting stationary store! Where do we need to go now? Do you know where the building is? Do you know which paper we need to file? Hassan- Yes, we need to go to the Centre de la Vignettes… it is over in Hay Hassani somewhere. They might close in an hour so we better move fast. Woman-Do you think we can accomplish this today? Hassan-We can try, Inshallah. (If God wills it so). Narrator- They drive to the Centre de Vignettes and arrive about 30 minutes later. They take a number at the door. Moroccan Greeting with Attendant 4 Attendant 3: (Speaks Formally with Hassan as Hassan shows one of the papers obtained from the Tree attendant). He explains: You need to go to the tax office but you can’t go there until you go to the technique and you can’t go there until you have the receipt of vignettes. Hassan translates to the woman and she looks at him with disbelief . Woman (to Hassan): But I don’t have the receipt of the sticker that is on my window. …but wait a minute…I have an idea… I can take a picture of the sticker and show it? (they both look at her like she has lost her mind). Hassan (asks the man): She doesn’t have a receipt of the sticker. Would it be ok if she shows you the picture of it? Attendant 3: Absolutely not. (In Daria)That will not work. You must have the receipt. …but ok…I will see if I can search for it for you. …let me see that paper again. ..(he looks in his computer and finds a number for the receipt and writes it on a small piece of paper) You will need this number when you go to pay your taxes. Hassan: (turns to the woman) You must not lose this paper (holds up the small piece). You will need it when you go to the Technique and the tax office. Now let’s try to get to The Gendarmerie before they close to get a certified copy of your “Carte de Sejour”. Woman: What is the Jon Darm.? Hassan: It is the local police station. There are several in this area. Let’s go to the one closest to here. Narrator: (to the audience) When they arrive they learn that the station in closed because they are “on strike” and the woman will need to go to another station on a different day. Scene 2 Enroute to the Tax Office in the R4. Actors can be sitting in two chairs and use a prop for a steering wheel. Woman (driving and speaking slowly and clearly): Thank you so much for taking your day off to help me. This has really been a different process than I expected and it is quite difficult for me to do alone. Reddad: (a bit nervous being in the city) it is fine. No problem---but I don’t like the traffic or the bureaucratic offices either. I try never to come to Casablanca…can’t remember the last time I did. And you know my Identity card? It has expired years ago because I haven’t been able to make it to the office either…so this is kind of encouraging me to take care of things too. Look out---(interrupted by traffic.) You need to go left. (motions)… Narrator: There is a round about with fences of tram construction all around and she cuts in front of it in order to find a parking spot-- Reddad: What? are you crazy? You are supposed to go around the round about— Woman: I didn’t see it. Really. I’m sorry. There was traffic everywhere else and not there…I thought it was what you meant. I have never really done that move in a car before…ok., on my scooter all the time and it is easy…but my friend Allison did worse last week…I didn’t think that was a big deal. Reddad: (getting nervous in the traffic) You must always go all the way around the round about even when there is terrible construction. Woman: (sincerely) Ok. I’m really sorry. Narrator: In front of the tax office they wait with a number for about 45 minutes and she pays taxes of 850 Dirhams. Reddad: (advising) Now when you go to the Technique Garage you need to go very early or you will be waiting a long time…get there by 8 a.m. Woman: Are you sure? I have never heard of any office or store in Casablanca opening that early— Reddad: Drive there before you go and see the hours for yourself. Narrator: One week later, on American Thanksgiving day, she heads to the Technique garage. (An aside: Thanksgiving day is a great day to get things done in Casablanca because you will have the day off and it is a workday in the middle of the week for Moroccans). Scene 3 At the Technique Garage. The woman is unaccompanied by a male interpreter. Arriving at 8:00 a.m sharp she is the third person in line. Woman: (to herself) I wonder how long this will take? (and a man approaches her) Mohammed: Tu peux venir mon bureau maintenant. Woman: D’accord Mohammed: (they exchange the Moroccan greeting) Est-ce que ton voiture, le R-4? Woman: oui Mohammed: Quelle pays tu habite? Woman: Je suis Americane. Mohammed: C’est bien. Tu habit suel? Tu a mari? Avez-tu les enfants? Si tu veux après-midi nous pouvons boire quelque chose? Ici, mon numero. Tu peux me telephone ces’t après midi. Oui? Woman: Oui. Inshahallah. Narrator: …she never met the man for coffee and never called him. But she did return to the DMV to deposit her completed paperwork. On December 22 she was told to come back the end of January to pick up her new Carte de Gris. Scene 4 Back at the DMV. She meets Attendant #1 at the door and makes the Moroccan greeting. He gives her a number card and she stands waiting for the next attendant. (He moves behind a desk and looks through his box of cards). Attendant #2: (exchanges greetings again in French this time) Madame, tu besoin a parler avec le Chief. S’il vous plait ---marche en bas..(he makes a large gesture which means walk around). She enters the Chief’s office. He doesn’t look up to see her but motions for her to sit down in a chair. She tries the Moroccan greeting and he looks up but sternly… He begins: Chief: (In broken English/French)- Tu comprend Francais? Woman: en peu si vous parlez lentement., merci. Chief: Ton carte c’est pas bien. Ton address sur ton carte de sejour est different par ton papier. Je ne l’accepter pas. Au Revoir. She tries to find any room to negotiate but he is firm. Narrator: At home she white-outs the current Route de Tamaris address and writes her former Casablana address that is on her Carte de Sejour. She returns to the DMV and submits her paperwork again. Again, she returns a month later to pick up her Carte de Gris…it is now mid January. She is in the office with the Chief again (he doesn’t seem to recognize her)… Chief: Madame, il ya problem avec ton papeers. C’est necessary que tu fair les application complete dans trent jours. Maintenant il a passé soixant jours. Tu besoin a recommencer ton application. Woman: (Almost in tears)…Monsieur, excuse-moi s’il vous plait…Je sais…Vous connais l’Anglais? She bursts out in English…I have been waiting for my new carte de sejour…it expired in October…Je suis professeur ecole American dans Californie…there is only one Human Resource person…and I wasn’t able to get my carte de sejour until December…(add lib) She almost melts down. She tells her personal story…money…children…being alone as a western woman in Morocco …He is stern and eventually relinguishes. Chief: D’accord Madame. Revenir en quatorze jours. Woman: Shokarun Bezef Monsieur. (Almost bowing) Scene 5 Narrator: In 14 days she returns and picks up her new Carte de Gris. Woman is standing with Attendant number 2 who hands her the card. Woman: (almost shouting in praise) Hemdulah, Hemdulah!! Props: official papers, carte de gris papers, carte de gris, steering wheel, human tree from the audience, box for Attendance #2 with cards and papers.

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