“It’s the simple things I like the most,” I reiterate, trying to find the most accurate words to explain my experience of living in Angra do Heroismo, to Portuguese Terceirenses. I continue,“It’s the handmade cobblestone streets and craggy castle rock views that so easily grace my daily walks with my dog Lexi... It’s the perfect little Dana Amélia cakes made fresh daily at O Forno which is only a couple blocks away, that were first made in 1901 for a queen’s visit and now tease tourists and me… It’s the nostalgia with the architecture I feel when shopping at the Mercado Duque de Bragança when suddenly while passing a corner of the building that is covered in hand painted tiles, I flashback to shopping in the medinas of Casablanca, Morocco…and the human connection I experience when the produce man smiles warmly as I practice my emergent Portuguese language…It’s because when I eat fish alcatra I taste the flavors of Africa, Europe, and India combined…For me, the world lives in Terceira and I feel deeply at home. As I hear myself speak these words aloud I surprise myself. Living a nomadic life from 2007-2020.
I was able to visit 44 different countries. I wonder, “How is it that I’ve become so comfortable here I don’t want to go anywhere else?” What makes Terceira so special?
For me, the most significant answer to this question may be that there is greater potential for a “work to life” balance here. As a veteran American educator I’m able to teach online in the evenings and this gives me more flexible time to enjoy my days in simple ways. Working online has allowed a quality of connection with students and colleagues around the world that is rewarding and inspiring. I do miss working with students and teachers “in person” but I hope one day my Portuguese language will be good enough that I may be able to contribute more as an educator in our community.
Making this professional transition was not an easy decision and the process required me to be mentally nimble. In the beginning I planned for a one year sabbatical and then return to the life of an international school principal somewhere in the world. However, as the tide of my life changed and I learned to slow down, new treasures washed in on the shore. The simple pleasures of swimming in the crystal cool Azorian Atlantic ocean, walking the rolling streets of Angra do Heroismo at sunset, and hiking the forest trails of the island of Terceira on weekends have brought renewal of my overall health. As a consequence,I’ve come to believe that spending quiet time in the deeply green or wild blue nature of Terceira, may be the best medicine there is!
“It is only when there is no goal and no rush that the human senses are fully open
to receive the world.”-Alan Watts
For novices interested in hiking on one of Terceira’s nine trails, you may find these notes of my first four hikes interesting:
“Rocha do Chambre (PRC6TER)” was my first hike that I made alone in October 2021. I selected this as my first hike, because of the description of the plant life in the protected forest that was described in the pamphlet provided by the Information Center in Angra do Heroismo. I felt confident that the 8.8 km distance on the brochure was accurate and that the markings would be adequate. Having my dog Lexi, a great hiker, was also reassuring. The trail included a steep incline of muddy stairs and narrow wooded paths that yielded gorgeous views. I did not have a local cell phone number yet or a map application on my phone and somehow I managed to get lost. Luckily, by sunset I met two friendly German tourists who were also lost. Together we managed to find the way out...16 kilometers later and 4.5 hours.
The second hike was of “Mistérios Negros (PRC01TER).” It is even more of a mystery in autumn rain. Sometimes seeking out the markers through mist and stepping between wet gnarly roots and jagged rocks makes this hike more of a challenge in places. At times I felt like I was the Hobbit in a fairytale. The next time I take this trail I will be sure to check and abide by the weather conditions.
I hiked “Serreta (PRC03TER)” with my best girlfriend on a perfect hiking day. The steep climb up to the lagoon was a bit of a challenge but worth it for the views. The trail had been prepared for a special event and it was fun to watch the variety of more avid hikers quickly passing us by. It’s also a wonderful hike in late July/early August because of the abundant colorful display of the hydrangea.
My favorite hike of all the 9 that I have tried is, “Passagem das Bestas” (PRC07TER). There is only one really steep part at the beginning but pausing to catch a breath in the deep pine forest is a fresh way to start! The variety of vegetation is delightful and the time of 2 hours makes this an easy hike to make in a day while still having time to take a sea dip afterwards to cool off! However, this is another trail to be cautious of in heavy rain. The path can become a flowing creek in the Spring!
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